March 5 - 8, 2015
Caught a flight from Quito to Lago Agrio over the Andes and into the Amazon. From the air we could see the tops of snow-covered volcanoes poking through the clouds.
We were scooped at the airport and loaded onto a bus that bumped and sped around twists and turns, humid blasts of air coming in through the open windows, and door. No A/C on that baby. We dozed on and off during the 1.5 to two hour ride, opening one eyeball as we slowed for the odd small town, as it had been an early riser and all small towns are starting to look the same.
We eventually pulled in to a dusty spot where we were shuffled into a long canoe-like boat in muddy waters, overhung with lush green palms and forest. It seated twelve, but there were just four of us headed for the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, (Samona Lodge), plus guide, Clyde, and our boat operator, Nestor. We were off on our adventure to the jungle! We were told it would be another 1.5 to 2 hours before we'd reach the camp by boat, and to keep our hands inside the boat and keep our heads low. I had visions of Jungle Book with animals dropping from the trees.
Despite our fatigue, we were revived by the sunny, smooth, rapid, pin-turning ride down the Rio Aguas Negras, a tributary in the Amazon headwaters, slowing only to point out various sights along the way. Nestor has keen eyes as he picked out a baby anaconda in the tall grass, a very sleek, jet black, shiny little gaffer, maybe a four-footer. Mom couldn't have been too far away... we saw various birds, toucans, stinking turkeys (aka watsins, as in what'sin that tree?), parrots, terns, vultures, your basic cormorants, blue heron and monkeys - finally monkeys!
When we arrived at Samona Lodge, our home for the next three nights. We first headed to the main lodge for our very late lunch, pork, rice, cucumbers and the ever-popular but bland plantain, topped off with banana with chocolate drizzle for dessert. After some idle chat, cabin assignment was the next order of the day. Number 3, Jaguar Hut. The huts are very basic; bed, bathroom, cold shower, towels. The camp drill is simple, breakfast at 8, lunch at 1, dinner at 8. Hot tea and coffee all the time, clean water supplied to fill our bottles, if you want beer or soft drinks, basic honour system, sign the book, put a tally beside your name and pay at the end of the stay. We dumped our stuff, grabbed some cooler clothes, sandals and bathing suits, and hung out in the hammocks in the big hut until our evening foray to Lago Grande to scout for caiman (alligator family) and swim. They assured us that the man-eating creatures don't swim in the middle of the lake, and that the pirañhas are vegetarians, haha, and we believed them. I was the first to jump overboard! The water was beautiful and warm after a sweaty day. We later scoured the shores for caiman and were successful in finding one lurking in the dark, until it bolted.
The real fun for me began after dinner, and later, when we were going to bed. I abhor cockroaches, so when we got back to our cabin, flashlights in hand, pitch dark, no electricity, and pushed open the door, the first thing that catches my eye, are cockroaches, as big as toonies running away, then some running up the bathroom door, some scurrying along the small ledge across the top of the bed, more in the bathroom, in the sink. I suddenly realised why the wall paint colour choice was dark red cedar stain - cockroach camo. The clincher was when I looked at my running shoes on the shelf and they were full, maybe a dozen of the suckers in them, antennae circling. It was all I could do not to freak out, so I held my breath, muttered an "Oh - my - God", turned off the light, jumped in to bed and tucked the mosquito netting in tight and waited for something creepy crawly to run over my body somewhere. Thankfully it didn't happen, before I fell asleep. The unfortunate part is, if/when you have to get up in the night to use the bathroom you have to go through it all over again....I slept with my contact lenses in for three nights.
Jungle highlights included the boat forays to look for creatures, the jungle walks (in the rain, boots and slicker provided) and a night walk as well. I was sure to stay close to 80 year old Aurora, as she wielded the machete! Rain didn't postpone our adventures either as we donned our gear for a skin-drenching boat ride in search of critters.
Aurora belongs to a Siona tribe. We also visited her 'house', picked, washed, grated, sifted and cooked yucca bread resembling tortillas on a wood fire in her 'kitchen'. I use the terms loosely as we were on an open air platform on stilts with a thatched roof they call home. The place is surrounded by flea-bitten, bite-riddled dogs, one suffering from a nose mishap...it was missing entirely. All you could see were the bloody nose holes where the nose once was. Chickens and roosters ate the small yucca leftovers we tossed their way. We were covered in sand flea bites, to the point that it looked as if we had measles, even with bug spray applied. Oddly enough, we were surprised at the lack of mosquitoes everywhere else.
We enjoyed tarantulas in the main lodge up in the ceiling as well as one in our hut. A lizard dropped from our ceiling at one point as well, probably to escape the grasp of the former. Each night you could hear screams (both sexes), from various directions as we settled in for the night. Probably not the most solid sleep of our vacation. It was somewhat comforting to know I wasn't alone in my phobia. The tarantulas I can deal with.
We also visited a Shaman, or 'spiritual leader' (he puts the sham into Shaman), of the Siona tribe, who uses hallucinogenic drugs to read people and 'cure' them, provide 'advice' etc. It was all we could do not to break out laughing as he described his role, all the time sporting a headdress which looked like it came from our fave store, GT Boutique, and a fetching blue hospital gown. We shot darts from a blow gun at some exotic fruit, but the highlight was playing soccer in our rubber boots, with the local kids.
Can't say I was sad to leave the place. Others had booked the longer package and we left them in our dust, or wake as it were, to brave the jungle. Nice to have the opportunity to see it but I'll stick to our Greens Creek any day, and sleep in our own bed!
Off to Galapogos after a HOT shower, SLEEP and another early run back to the airport!
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