Santiago de Chile

January 12, 2015

Santiago is the capital and largest city of Chile and is located in the country's central valley, at an elevation of 520 m (1,706 ft) above sea level.

Founded in 1541, Santiago has been the capital city of Chile since colonial times. The city has a downtown core of 19th century neoclassical architecture and winding side-streets, dotted by art deco, neo-gothic, and other styles. Its cityscape is shaped by several stand-alone hills and the fast-flowing Mapocho River.

We had a 6 a.m. start to the day as we sleepily walked to the trolley and made our way to the central bus terminal where we purchased two, one-way bus tickets to Santiago, 70 miles inland.

Our coach was a nice, comfortable double-decker and we settled in for the one and a half hour ride. Almost immediately, as you leave Valparaíso, you can see the landscape changing as you move through the valleys and lush, vivid green vineyards. As you near the city itself, the majestic Andes mountains strike you and the temperature rises considerably from the cooler Valpo climate.

We arrived at our Parajitos connection to the Metro and rode to the Santa Lucía stop, where we knew we could catch the Hop On Hop Off bus for a tour of the city. We lucked out when we popped into a  hotel for a map and inquired about the bus. Not only did they have a map, but also sold the bus package (pass, map, earphones), gave us wifi access and sent us off on our merry way.

As we sat atop the double-decker we quickly realized how busy the city actually is and how much is happening. If cranes are any indication of economic development,  Santiago is booming. New roads, mammoth skyscrapers, new architecture blending in harmony with the historic (Hello Ottawa!), and subdivisions cropping up all over. Urban sprawl is definitely happening, albeit constrained by the Andes. 

Some things which impressed us included the tallest building in Latin America, the Gran Torre Santiago, several major universities, and that we got to experience the transportation infrastructure - the toll-based, partly underground freeway system and the Metro de Santiago, South America's most extensive subway system.

It was not until we had finished the tour and met up with our friends Fabio and Vicky that we really got a bird's eye view of Santiago in its entirety!

We had a late lunch at a really nice restaurant downtown (CHPE, acronym for Chile and Peru). We ordered Piscos and didn't realise that our lunch included both Piscos (in addition to what we ordered), and wine, so we had way more to drink than we may otherwise have. We toughed it out though, troopers that we are, and never wanting to succumb to a challenge. The steaks were amazing - up until now we've had mainly fish and seafood. Poor Fabio was the DD. There's zero tolerance for drinking and driving in Chile, no matter the age. All good.

After lunch we drove up to the top of San Cristóbal Hill lookout. Just incredible views of this huge metropolis, as the ascensor brought sightseers to and fro. It was a scorcher of a day.

We also toured through various neighbourhoods and finally to Vicky's beautiful condo. She was there during the major earthquake, 8.8 magnitude, of 2010 on the 21st (top) floor as the building swayed back and forth and the kitchen ceiling fell in around her. We can only imagine...but her condo does have breathtaking views!

We said our goodbyes to Vicky and hopped in with Fabio for a lift to Casablanca, where he had dropped us the week prior, to catch a bus back to Valpo, followed by a quick connection via trolley and ascensor home. Ain't transit grand (when it works, and it does here most of the time)?

Attached photos of construction (at the restaurant) showing beams built into brick walls, making them stronger to better withstand earthquakes. Also some pretty funky architecture happening!

Fare for one person:
Trolley - 250 Pesos (50 cents)
Bus to (Parajitos), Santiago - 5,100 Pesos ($10.20)
LRT/Metro to Santa Lucía - 600 Pesos ($1.20)
Hop On Hop Off tour bus - 20,000 Pesos ($40)
Bus from Casablanca to Valparaíso 1,300 Pesos ($2.60)

Spending the day in Santiago with friends, priceless...thanks Fabio and Vicky!